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Sunday 4th Ilkley - Burnsall 13.5 miles. After a group photo on the Old Bridge we set off
on the first leg of our journey along the banks of the River Wharfe where we see herons, grey
wagtails, sand martins, ducks and their ducklings and many other birds. We have a picnic lunch
beside the river in the grounds of the beautiful 12th century ruins of Bolton Priory, and then
cross the river, most opting to use the stepping-stones. A steep climb on the other side affords a
lovely view of the priory and the sweeping curve of the river. On the wooded slopes of beech, oak
and sycamore we come across the ‘Money Tree’, a fallen tree that people have hammered countless
coins into. A few miles on the Wharfe narrows and surges through the narrow gorge and rocks of The
Strid. We spend the night in the remote, pretty village of Burnsall surrounded by gritstone moors
and Thorpe Fells. Our evening meal is in the Red Lion where the food is good but the service poor.
(The chef had obviously been to the Gordon Ramsay charm school - Ed.)
Monday 5th Burnsall - Kettlewell 9.7 miles. We continue along the scenic riverside path by
Loup Scar, crossing the river by the suspension bridge or stepping stones, some taking an
impromptu dip! As we admire Linton Falls from the bridge we get our first glimpse of the RAF jets
we will see flying through the Dales most days. After lunch in the picturesque village of
Grassington, where Sheila bought some shorts as she had forgotten hers, we climb up above the
valley leaving the river for limestone and grass moorland where we see an old lime kiln. Climbing
to the top of Conistone Pie we admire the views and take another group photo. The path drops down
to the river at the lovely little town of Kettlewell (famous for the Calendar Girls - Ed.),
most of us stay at the Racehorses Hotel where we all eat.
Tuesday 6th Kettlewell - Oughtershaw 10.7 miles. The path continues to follow the river
through green pastures, late flowering May blossom and bluebells adding a dash of colour. Whilst
having a drink stop in a stone circle, entertainment is provided by ‘one man and his dog’ rounding
up sheep on the hill over on the far bank. The weather is getting hotter each day but David allows
a leisurely pace with lots of drink stops. The river changes along this part of the route,
disappearing altogether in places and leaving the smooth white stone bed visible. Further on the
terrain alters slightly becoming open and wilder as we leave the Wharfe behind. We arrive in
Oughtershaw where our drivers Mike and Eric are waiting to transfer us back to our accommodation
in Kettlewell.
Wednesday 7th June, Oughtershaw - Dentdale, 10 miles. Dropped off in Oughtershaw we pick up
the path again, climbing steadily over open moorland. On a hot sunny day it’s hard to imagine how
bleak this area can be in inclement weather. We continue past Cam Houses to Cam Head, reaching the
highest point where the Dales Way meets the Pennine Way on Cam High Road, where yet another
group photo is taken.
We enjoy views of the Three Peaks, then lunch overlooking the Ribblehead Viaduct
with trains crossing in the distance. Descending down the track we stop to see a cave before
crossing the road for a steep climb, leaving Yorkshire and entering Cumbria on Gayle Moor.
Downward into Dentdale by the River Dee the landscape turns green and fertile again.
Thursday 8th June, Dentdale - Sedburgh, 12.5 miles. We are dropped off at the Youth Hostel
today to walk through flower meadows, woods and farmland, the hedgerows and lanes dotted with
yellow Welsh Poppies. Jenny takes the day off from walking to spend time with old school friends.
We have a tea break in the pretty town of Dent with its whitewashed houses, cobblestone streets
and twelfth century church. Later by a hillside farm a gorgeous woolly white alpaca regally stands
and watches us pass by. Following the River Rawthey we approach Sedburgh by the manicured lawns of
its famous school’s sports grounds. We are all accommodated in The Bull at Sedburgh and have our
evening meal there.
Friday 9th June, Sedburgh - Burton House (A6), 14.4 miles. We start this morning by
following the River Lune over Lincoln’s Inn Bridge, under the towering stone arches of the Lune
Viaduct, and on to a lovely view of the Howgills. Lunching on the riverbank by the Crook of Lune
Bridge, some dip their feet in the cool water while eating. We chat with the landlady standing at
the gate of her B & B where Colin and Sheila had stayed on their first Dales Way! Soon we come to
the Lowgill Viaduct, cross the M6 by a footbridge, then through a wooded area with wonderful
rhododendrons and on to the River Mint. Behind us now views of the Howgills and in front the
Lakeland Fells. We descend steeply to the A6 and Burton House where our driver is waiting to take
us to our accommodation in Kendal where we celebrate our last dinner together in the Kendal Arms.
Saturday 10th June, Burton House - Bowness, 11.5 miles. Following farmland and pasture we
walk along the banks of the River Sprint to the village of Burnside, then the River Kent
accompanies us as far as Staveley. We stop to buy refreshments at a local house, relaxing for a
while in the garden and gratefully replenish our water supplies before continuing on our way.
Leaving the rivers behind we climb steadily through pastures, woodland and bridleway on rougher
undulating terrain with rocky outcrops for views of the Coniston Fells. We eventually catch a
glimpse of Lake Windermere through the trees and descend into bustling Bowness for a last
group photo by the waterside.
Thanks to David for organising a wonderful walk, to the drivers for getting everyone home safely
on Saturday after a long day’s walking in the heat and to everyone for being wonderful company.
Evelyn Boyle
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