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Our base for the first five days was the Alston YH in Cumbria, evening meal was a choice of
chicken curry and chips or chips and chicken curry - not a good start! A bonus was sightings of
red squirrels from the ladies' dormitory.
Day one: Bowes to Bowlees, 16.7 miles. We start from Bowes castle passing derelict MOD land
and then on to Blockton reservoir for lunch in the bird hide. Nearby is Hannah Hauxwell's meadow,
a wildlife reserve. Middleton in Teesdale and Susie's cafe finish off the day, the highlight of
which was the sighting of an unknown red-legged duck.
Day two: Bowlees to Dufton, 17.2 miles. High Force is reached early in the walk then on to
Langton Beck YH reaching the River Tees. The roar of Cauldron Snout, an explosive torrent of water
comes into view presenting a hazardous scramble for the intrepid twelve. Birkdale leads up to High
Cup Nick, a most impressive basin and a sight to send one's spirits soaring. It was hot and humid
and some of the party were ceremoniously baptized in the Tees.
Day three: Dufton to Garigill, 15.8 miles. The first three miles brought us back to our
base at Alston where we had a drink stop. Further on a local farmer informed us that the "Helm
Wind", a local weather phenomenon, would cover Cross Fell in mist. Sure enough Little Dun Fell and
Cross Fell (893m) the highest point on the way were covered, Greg's Hut (a refuge at map ref
691354) came as a welcome break although a nearby landslip gave us negotiating problems. A long
downhill slog on a monotonous stony road finished our walk. One trig point today.
Day four: Garrigill to Kellah, 16.1 miles. Following the South Tyne River we leave Cumbria
and enter Northumberland National Park passing over open moor to Kellah. Two points of interest:
Lambley Railway Viaduct and Peter Keeble's spectacular effort to walk on a bog, resulting in a
ceremonial wash down from our water bottles.
Day five: Kellah to Steel Rigg, 11.5 miles. We uproot from Alston YH to Bellingham YH: but
first about the day's walk. Hadrian's Wall is our target. Via Thirwall castle (photo stop) we
reach Walltown, now a nature reserve and teashop. Upon reaching Hadrian's Wall we enjoyed glorious
views all around. Our new base at Bellingham was at first slightly reminiscent of Stalag 17
however the hostel was clean and the warden very friendly. Her husband, an ex-miner, regaled us
with redundancy stories from his mining days hopeful that Mrs Thatcher would pay a visit so that
he could leave her down the mine!
Day six: Steel Rigg to Bellingham, 15.3 miles. The walk started dramatically, very steep
and straight up to the Wall. At Rapishaw Gap the way heads NNE over Ridley Moor. Here the
Northampton group did their bit for the local livestock: upon passing a bog someone remarked "look,
a dead sheep" but Gill Howe noticed it was still breathing and it was pulled to firm land. The
beast fell to its knees in adoration (or tiredness?) and eventually rejoined the flock.
Day seven: Bellingham to Bryness, 15.4 miles. Starting from the hostel we traverse moorland
into Kielder Forest passing the site of the Battle of Otterburn (1388) and a farmstead named
Blakehopeburnhaugh, reputedly the longest place name in England. After a few miles of forest
walking the cafe at Bryness greets us. The hill of Whitney Pike indicates the 100 mile stage for
this part of the Pennine Way. A final drive to Kirk Yetholm YH, our accommodation for the last few
days.
Day eight: Bryness to Clennell Street, 16.8 miles. Kirk Yetholm YH was bright and clean
with a helpful warden and plenty of floor space to hang our clothes on! Our minibus driver, after
a "short cut" left us at Bryness. From here it was straight up a slippery never ending slope to
Brynes Hill. MOD notices appeared warning of unexploded devices lying around but eventually the
Scottish border is crossed. On to Windy Gyle, a summit of 619m which lived up to its name.
Clennell Street is our destination but the cars are still 2.4 miles away downhill at Cocklawfoot.
Day nine: Clennell Street to Kirk Yetholm, 16.4 miles. It's very windy, the tail end of
hurricane Ivan from the Caribbean blows us on to Kings Seat then Cairn Hill. Further on seven of
the party elected to detour to climb the Cheviot (815m), the rest of us including yours truly took
refuge in the Auchope Hut awaiting their return. The others returned and we continued to Kirk
Yetholm, some taking the lower path. Others, gluttons for punishment, taking the higher ridge path.
Finally we all marched onto the village green for a photo-take at the bus shelter, the official
end of the Pennine Way. Hooray!
Once again David Craddock arranged a cracking nine days' walking, including the fine weather
nearly every day. Our thanks are a poor substitute for all the time and effort put into the
organization of this event.
Mick Freeland
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