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 Pennine Way South  5th - 15th October, 2003
Edale to Bowes, 129 miles


Day 0: 12 Ramblers arrived at Haworth YH for a 10 day walk on the Pennine Way. A minibus was organised to collect us each morning at 07:45(!) to our start point - collecting us at the end of the day's walk.

Day 1: Edale to Crowden, 16.4 miles
Starting off at Old Nag's Head in Edale - raining! (wet gear on). Reach 'misty' Kinder Scout; rain stopped. Down to Black Ashop Moor, up to Mill Hill, on to Bleaklow Head, Torside Reservoir, down into Crowden.

Day 2: Crowden to Standedge, 12.4 miles Black hill was our main summit, followed enthusiastically with bacon butties from a layby van. The call to 'lax buttie collection' being a shrill whistle blast, followed by a loud shout: "bacon with red". Back at base we had a democratic vote on the starting time each day - it stayed at 07:45!

Day 3: Standedge to Hebden Bridge, 15.2 miles Three trig points - Millstone Edge, White Hill and Blackstone Edge. Butties at Brian's Van, A672 layby. Crossed a new footbridge over the M62. Stopped at the White House Inn, on to Studeley Pike before reaching Hebden Bridge.

Day 4: Hebden Bridge to Pondon, 11.37 miles Easier day - one highlight being May's Aladdins Cave for tea and cakes. Whilst May was making the tea, our Bill was busy selling cakes. Stopped to visit Withins, a ruined farmhouse associated with Wuthering Heights, finishing at Pondon Reservoir.

Day 5: Pondon to Thornton in Craven, 12.2 miles The Wolf Stones (trig point not found). Pinnacle and Tower were passed before reaching the Black Bull pub which opened early for coffee. A very congenial host here, unlike the Hare and Hounds in Lothersdale - not rambler friendly. The Ickornshaw Beacon (trig point) leads on to Thornton.

Day 6: Thornton to Malham, 14.2 miles Mainly low level walking, starting along the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. The village of Gargrave was reached (Sustrans cycle route 68) and The Dalesman Cafe visited for tea and toasted scones. Arrived at Malham earlier than expected and decided to carry on over Malham Cove to the Tarn car park.

Day 7: Malham to Horton in Ribblesdale, 14.2 miles Starting at the tarn, a long drag onto Fountains Fell, then losing all our height gained, tackled Pen Y Ghent (2277 ft) our highest ascent. The descent was long and toe crushing all the way to Horton. The cafe here serves tea in very large mugs dished out by an old diminutive lady, who seemed overwhelmed by our numbers.

Day 8: Horton to Hawes, 14.0 miles Climbing steeply over Cam and Dodd Fell, we passed many old potholes. At Rock Edge cottage, a photo-shoot, as 100 miles is accomplished. Close by, the Three Peaks path crossed our way - a reunion photo was called for. Gayle and Hawes villages are soon sighted, and tea and cakes consumed.

Day 9: Hawes to Keld, 12.77 miles Now in Wensleydale - our first objective is the Green Dragon Inn in Hardraw (not open!). On to Great Shunner Fell (2350 ft). The village of Thwaite beckons and Kearton's Restaurant - rather posh place though enjoyed our custom. Reached Birk Hill, then on to a rather narrow and difficult path hugging the hillside all the way to Keld. Guess what? Another teashop before our ride back to Haworth.

Day 10: Keld to Bowes, 12.44 miles Our last day walking. Out of Keld, across Stonesdale Moor to the Tan Hill Inn, highest pub in England - very isolated. Quenched our thirst here. Pinned up near the bar for all to read was a very amusing letter to Tony Blair, expressing many people's views on our Government's progress or lack of it! Crossing Sleightholme Moor (Co. Durham) - a long ¾ mile slog. Taking the alternative route off to Bowes, the ruined castle comes into view. After negotiating various paths, unofficially re-directed by the local farmer, we wearily arrive at Bowes, having covered 129 miles. Enjoying ice creams from the nearby 'bygone aged' local Post Office, we boarded our minibus back to Haworth. Finally, our journey home.

A truly unforgettable experience! We all owe Dave Craddock our thanks for a well organised 10 days. He kept us together on walks, had faith in the weather forecasts, and even found time for Line Dancing and Yoga watching! Red Grouse was the only addition to Mick's 'Tally of Birds'. Well done everybody.

Mick Freeland

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